Did you know brake pads have to be broken in? Most car parts require being broken in before actually living up to their all-star reviews. Brake pads are no different. If you’re wondering how to break in your brake pads, then you’ve come to the right place.
Properly breaking in your new brake rotors and pads is crucial to ensuring maximum, stopping power and longevity. Here are the steps to follow for a successful break-in procedure:
Drive safely and normally for the first 400-500 miles to bed-in the brake pads and rotors.
Gradually allow the brake pads to transfer a layer of friction material to the rotors. This transfer film is crucial because it does most of the work for the brake pads during the braking process.
Try to avoid slamming on the brakes or heavy/aggressive braking during this time, unless it’s to avoid an accident.
There may be some noise, smoke, smell and excessive brake dust during the break in period. This is normal.
Braking performance will greatly improve after this bed-in period.
Following these steps will ensure that your new brakes are properly bedded in for optimal performance and durability. Remember to always prioritize safety while on the road and have your brakes checked regularly by a professional
Breaking in your brake pads is necessary to prevent brake rotor warping. New brake pads are always hard. Therefore, using them casually while they’re brand new may warp your rotors over time. This is completely preventable if you perform the steps mentioned above.
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Well, I can see a ton of mechanics making $$ for nothin here - NEVER in my life have I heard that you need to bleed your brakes after a pad change & it is definitely not necessary...
> Only time you need to bleed brakes is if the system has been opened to the air, such as disconnecting a brake line, or replacing a master cylinder/caliper, etc.
> And opening up the cap on your reservoir doesn't introduce air into the system either (unless you have no fluid in there and pump the pedal).
I've been changing my own pads, on more different cars that I have owned, than I can remember, since 1976 & have NEVER bled the brakes after simple pad change.
> If the brakes didn't need bled before the change, they don't after. It isn't even needed as routine maintenance - if there is no air leak in your system there is no way for the air to enter.
> Now, I agree that brake system needs to be completely flushed/refilled with fresh fluid every 2 yrs - but this is only to refresh the fluid which can/will absorb water over time.
> Pushing the caliper piston back in to housing to allow for new thicker pads does not let air into the system - the piston is sealed in bore. If moving the piston added air - then every time you use the brakes air would enter.
> Air in your system does not result in your pedal going to the floor either. Air in the system gives you a 'spongy' feel when you apply the brakes - as air is not compressible in a hydraulic system.
> Pads that are not 'bedded in' don't result in pedal going to floor either. Bedding in simply transfers pad material to the rotor (if done correctly) to enhance braking ability. Mostly this is done with aftermarket hi performance pads - not OEM. Hell, there are tons of pads being changed every day by dealers (including BMW), or ind. shops that are never bedded in. They change your brakes - you pay - get in the car & drive off. All (4) of my rotors/pads have been changed under warranty with OEM, nary a mention on needing bedded in, and brake performance is as when new.
As mentioned, you always start car, pump up brakes after a pad change - simply to move piston/pad combo back out into contact with rotor after you have retracted the piston fully during swap. This should take like 3-5 pumps on the pedal max, not 5 minutes of pumping.
If it took you 5 min to get any pedal feel, and then they still weren't good upon 1st use - then you have problems other than what can be fixed by a simple pad change.
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Last edited by 1QuikWS6; 11-06-2012 at
04:00 AM
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